Cider- A Tasting of Three
By Zelduh Fitzgerald
Any jackass can make cider:
(1) mash/squeeze the juice out of apples (2) let container of apple juice
sit until it ferments. It's that simple. Apples have their
own yeasts on them and they alone can ferment them. That why if you
find that grocery stores keep fresh, unpasteurized ciders on ice or refrigerated-
so they won't ferment.
But, of course, the devil is in the
details, and so there are some wonderful ciders and some that are nothing
more than a waste of apples. Cider well made is a luscious, golden
potion which bitter-sweetly makes love to the tongue. It's a friendly
spirit. If made with care and well balanced, a cider leaves a smile
on the lips it has passed.
There are ciders for warm days and
those heartier ones for cold weather. It's amazing that so simple
a creation is relatively new to the alcohol annals of history.
According to Leslie Dunkling's swell book,
The
Guinness Drinking Companion (Lyons & Burford: New York, NY,
1992), cider was unknown to England until the Middle Ages and was perhaps
brought there during the Norman Conquest. Thereafter cider migrated
to America with the early settlers and was guzzled copiously by New Englanders,
even giving rise to some weird rituals. Dunkling notes:
"William Hone relates in his Every-day
Book that within living memory English farmers would go to their orchard
on Twelfth Night with a pitcher of cider. There they would circle
one of the best trees, toasting it and wishing it prosperity. Whatever
remained in the pitcher would then be 'given' to the tree, or to the hamadryad,
the tree-god, that dwelt within it."
Warning: Don't let the taste fool
you- ciders can be very high in alcohol content. Check the alcohol
content before deciding how much you will consume.
Woodpecker English Cider (4.2%
Alcohol, $1.50/12 ounce bottle)
Don't let the pale champagne color
of this cider fool you into thinking it's not worth the bother. Woodpecker
is one of the more understated ciders in taste. However, if you are
looking for a light, champagne-like cider, I assure you that when finished
with the first, you will feel like you can stomach another. Woodpecker
is a teaser as to whether it is distinctly sour or sweet. A room
full of ten people may come to a hung jury on that verdict; some may be
too confused to vote. There is nothing heavy or solid about this
cider. It's all flowers, perfume, and of course apples. You'll
find me drinking it when I know I'll be out drinking for some time and
I need a pacing drink. (Rating ***1/2)
Original Sin Hard Cider
(6% Alcohol, $1.50/12 ounce bottle)
The first thing you'll notice in
this cider is the contrasting sweet and sour taste: natural fruit sugars
from a tart apple. Next, your tongue will taste the cider opening
up into a lightly carbonated bouquet in your mouth. It's an interesting
combination that I like to experience in a drink. The only downside
is that the transition between the two stages is a bit hasty. The
color is that of a beautiful, golden apple juice. Not a bad choice
for those who like a tart cider. (Rating ***)
Cider Jack (5.5% Alcohol,
$1.50/12 ounce bottle)
"Where the hell is it?" Look
a good reviewer, I swirled a bit of Cider Jack's Hard Core Cider in a tasting
glass. I couldn't find the cascade, the running sheet of fluid that
should slowly fall back to the glass. My conclusion is that either
it evaporates into thin air or it is incredibly thin. Unfortunately,
the taste doesn't win it any prizes either. Have you ever had something
so SWEET that it made you pucker? Well, if that's your thing, then
you'll like this cider. The sickly sweet aroma should be your first
hint to its saccharin taste. It tastes like the Cider Jack people
forgot that apples have their own sugar, and decided to add Sweet-N-Low
to their mashed up apples. This one won't even win on recommendations
for after dinner dessert recommendations. (Rating *1/2) |