I recognize that facing these two spirits off against one another is a bit like facing off a poodle and a pit bull in small pen. It's not a fair fight. Yet, there is some value in this brutal exercise. Just as it helps one to appreciate a terrific sculpture by looking first at some of the rot that passes itself off as modern "art," so it is with these two.

This St. Remy fetches, oh, maybe $25 or more a bottle, when you can find it. Armagnac Cames 1981 goes for $70 and just a couple hundred cases are available in the U.S. The Remy is dull, flabby in the mouth, hot on the tongue and offers the senses little than annoyance (Rating ***1/2).

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The Armagnac Cames 1981, on the other hand, is delicious, with notes of caramel, nuts, spearmint, wine, fruits. It's lovely and I'd fight many men for a bottle. (Rating ****1/2).

For more information about Armagnac Cames, surf to http://www.frencharmagnac.com or ring Armagnac Cames USA at 212-243-4280