A Tasting of Five Grappas- Banfi Grappa, Candolini Grappa and Grappa Ruta, Quady's Spirit of Elysium, and Grappa Di Segal
By Kevin R. Kosar

This past year while vacationing in San Francisco I of course, of course, visited a few bars.  At one pricey old country club like place on the waterfront in Sausolito I spied an attractive bottle of grappa behind the bar.  When I asked the aged barkeep how it was, his response was 
swift: "Kerosene."  As with Tequila in the past, grappa possesses a poor reputation in this country.  It is a shame, for as the tasting notes below indicate, their are some very enjoyable grappas to be found.

Before proceeding further, we ought first recount what is grappa.  According to the very useful and attractive, Grappa, by Axel and Bibiana Behrendt (Abbeville, 1999), Grappa is
"a pomace brandy produced by direct distillation of the skins of pressed grapes...To keep its taste as unmistakable as its name, every aspect grappa's production prescribed by statute: the composition of the pomace (the skins, seeds, and so on left after the grapes are crushed for wine), the distillation method, and the maximum alcohol content (86 percent by volume/172 proof) of the fresh distillate."  Even the maximum moisture content of the pomace has been fixed.  Distillates from whole fermented grapes, though similar in taste, cannot be called grappa."
Oh yes- and for grappa to be grappa, it must be made in Italy.  That would seem to immediately disqualify the California Quady's Spirit of Elysium (which does not claim to be a grappa) and Grappa Di Segal, which is made in Israel.  However, since these two are also made from pomace, let us call them pseudo-grappas and taste them next to the three grappas proper.
Banfi Grappa ($43)-
90 proof. Banfi's grappa is a nutty, slightly herbaceous grappa made from the beloved prized Brunello grape and aged in oak a short time. It is slightly sweet, a touch earthy, and quite smooth.  Recommended.  (Rating ***1/2)

Candolini Grappa ($33)-
80 proof. Crisp, herbal, lacking the sweetness that the Banfi possessed.  Offers up a soft toffee note that is very attractive.  Very smooth, and likely to appeal to vodka or seasoned grappa drinkers. (Rating ****)

Candolini Grappa Ruta ($40)-
80 proof. The harsh sister of Candolini.  The chunk of pale green Rue shrub floating within makes it just look daunting.  Though complex, the intense bitterness of the Rue proves to be very distracting.  Only hard-core grappa drinkers are likely to enjoy this straight up.
(Rating**)

Quady's Spirit of Elysium ($40)-
80 proof. This pseudo-grappa is derived from the left Black Muscat grapes used to make Quady's Elysium wine.  Assuredly this is the most likely of this bunch to appeal to grappa novices, as it is super soft and floral and grapey. Definitely worth seeking out to try. (Rating ****1/4)

Grappa Di Segal ($20)-
80 proof. Not technically grappa, this spirit is very peculiar.  Manufactured by Israel's Askalon Wines, it is aged in oak casks, perhaps for longer than a year.  It is pale yellowish, herbal, foresty on the nose and in the mouth just socks you with barrel.  It's smooth, but a bit extreme.  Will assuredly polarize tasters, thus a split rating.  (Rating **/****)


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