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Isle of Jura 16 years old, 43 percent 10 years old (40 percent)
by William Loob

Coming from the only distillery on the island just to the north of the fabled whisky-making Isle of Islay, Jura whisky tends to sit in the shadow of its more renowned neighbors. And among the whiskies from those famous distilleries, it is the reputation of the aggressively peaty and smoky malts that dominate. It is difficult for "an island whisky" to get noticed without sending billows of smoke out of the glass. Those who think island whisky is all smoke and peat will take time to get used to Jura.

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The distillery's presence in the American market has for years relied on its 10-year-old malt, a whisky that has a lightly oily character but has been described by some as more of a beginner’s dram.

Recently the distillery started showing the world that it is capable of greater depth of expression. The Isle of Jura 16-year-old that has started making its way into the major cities of the United States is much richer and warmer in character than the 10-year-old. The 10-year-old is a lighter, subtler whisky that doesn’t smack you over the head with a cacophony of flavors demanding attention. The alcohol comes out heavy on the nose at first, but a sweet malt aroma wafts up with a note of peat. The texture has a bit of oiliness to it, and an almost sugary sweetness sits on the tongue for a while. A hint of toffee and a quick taste of pepper also come out on the finish to give this whisky a more rounded profile. A little water for dilution brings out some notes of salt air. Overall this whisky won’t disappoint, but its essence is a more easy-drinking character. (Rating ***1/4)

With a few more years in the cask, however, the 16-year-old does shows its greater maturity—a veil of woody aromas (all from bourbon casks) meets the nose. It also carries off a bit of the scent of salt air, and it’s mixed in with a little of the aroma of peat under the malt, all of which gives the malt a similar profile to its younger sibling. But everything shows more finesse, and the warmth in the toasty malt conveys the richly evocative quality of sitting in an oak-paneled study. Other subtleties emerge with time—white chocolate, taffy, a hint of wildflowers, and perhaps a lightly raisiny aroma that reminds of a hearty Christmas cake. The palate reinforces the white chocolate impression, as the sweetness of the malt and creamy texture gives it a milky quality and a toffee note, almost custardlike on the finish. Most of the smoky nuances come into play on the finish, along with a bitter-dark-chocolate flavor and a bite of charred oak. (Rating ****)

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