Francis Coppola Sofia Blanc De Blanc 1999
by Kevin R. Kosar

The sun hung low in the late summer sky and the air outside the Sherry Netherland was ripe with dung.  Yep- this is midtown, at the southeast tip of Central Park, where the hotels are posh, the street clogged with limousines, and the horse drawn carriages park.  

After almost wandering into the wrong building, I clomped through the front door and was promptly met by staff.  "Yes, sir.  Can I help you, sir?"  Though I was wearing a snappy Italian Cashmere jacket, he still seemed to be able to spot me- interloper, Ohio boy.

I defiantly noted that I was there for the private wine party- "the Sofia Coppola gathering," I added, with a whiff of guff and a stroke of my cashmere.  He pointed to my right and down I went, through a tunnel or stairs with red shiny walls and into the Doubles, the basement club, with walls and carpet the same red and mirrors on the ceiling.


I gabbed for a time with Derrick L. Sanders, a young man come from Texas to New York to pursue an acting career, then a fellow who was an Internet mogul of some sort.  

Before I knew it, the near empty room was jammed with young hipsters, most looking like they were unbathed, hung over, and had dressed themselves in Salvation Army's best.  So it is with young wealth.  And me feeling grotesquely overdressed in my Italian jacket.

I had been amongst such crowds before.  Though I'm getting up there (above 29, below 31), they weren't Martians to me.  I've seen them before- at gallery openings, clubs, obscenely expensive cocktail lounges.  Typically this crowd drank either grungy beer (like Rolling Rock) or snobbed it up with super premium vodka.

Yet, here they were not only drinking the Sofia sparkling wine, they were enjoying it and going back for fifth and sixth glasses.  It's light, bubbly, not super dry (it's no Brut) nor sugary.  Just a mild white sparkling wine with a touch of apple and pear that's made for drinking chilled and in large quantities.  Not an august Champagne, for sure. When I managed to get Sofia's attention for a momemt and asked her whether she had decided to plunge into the wine business, she admitted that it was all her father's doing. "No, I just drink it," she said with a giggle.

Sometime near 10:00 the lights came on and we all had to leave.  Did the white tux-top and black bow tie help not begin packing up the bottles and refusing to serve more, the night would have rolled on until the Sofia ran out.  (Rating ***1/4)

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