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All That Sparkles by Charles Westbrook The other day I heard some folks chatting about holiday parties soon to come. One line that was mouthed by someone in the pack was, "Well, we have to get some Champagne." It's a peculiar Americanism that we tend to call all sparkling wine "Champagne" and only bring it up in the context of special days or events- say, a wedding, or New Year's. That one can drink Champagne or any sparkling wine regularly is unfathomable, it seems. One hopes, though, that this will change...soon. No doubt, Pommery Champagne is doing a bang up job of getting consumers to see Champagne as a drink for all times. They have their Pommery POP, a little blue bottle of Champagne that comes with a straw that is targeted at dance club goers. When
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Mother's and
Father's days rolled 'round, they came out with specially packaged versions
(for Mother's Day, if I recall, they, offered Pommery Brut Rose with a
lovely bracelet that garnishes the bottle and could then be worn by dear,
sweet Mom).
And, it's worth noting, that all the
Pommery Champagnes I've tasted have been splendid, four stars or better.
They include, Pommery Brut Rose (sorry, Mom, I kept it for myself),
Pommery Brut Royal, and Pommery Brut Millesime Grand Cru 1995.
Moreover, now is the time to buy Champagne.
I say this not because it is the holidays, but because there is a glut
of it. A recent report in the New York Times noted that a number of factors
(the September 11th attack, over production, etc.) have the market flooded
with Champagne. Stores have to move it, so the pressure is to cut prices
and get it our the door. In which case, be wise, and buy, buy, buy,
for if stored properly, Champagne (or nearly any sparkling wine, for that
matter) will last for years and years. Which means you can buy Champagne
for your 2010 wedding anniversary or 2015 New Year's today at today's
prices. That said, if one's pockets aren't
deep enough for good Champagne or one wants to spend one's dollars at
home, there are other options. Take Pierre Spaar's Cremant D'Alsace
Pinot Noir Brut Rose 1996. It's a pink-peachy color, tastes of blackberry
and fruit is a just a little dry. It sells for about $16 (Rating***1/2).
Or, one might want to look at some of Mumm-Cuvee Napa's offerings. Their
Brut Prestige runs $18 and is a pleasant, crisp wine that goes
great with trouffle pate (Rating ***1/4). Mumm's Blanc de Noirs
is also $18, and it is light pink-peach colored and differs from the Brut
prestige in that it is very fruity in the mouth, tasting of apples and
dishing a whiff of perfume (Rating ***1/2). Those big on Chardonnay and
Pinot Gris might gets a kick out of Mumm's 1997 Blanc de Blancs,
which is delicious. It's straw colored, soft, and very nuanced, showing
lemon, vanilla, and more ($22; Rating ****). Or, those wanting the Cadillac
de Mumm might be advised to shell out the $50 for the 1996 DVX,
so named for Guy Devaux, Mumm-Cuvee Napa's founding winemaker. It's a
rich, creamy sprkling wine, made soft in part by its high viscosity. Wow.
(Rating ****1/2)
Those looking for something that isn't white and dry are advised to check out
Rosa Regale Brachetto d'Acqui 2000. It's a deep cranberry colored wine that has a hefty starwberry nose
and luscious fruit flavors. With chocolate this is a wine to die for ($23; Rating ***3/4).
Some out there, of course, grouse
that they can't drink bubbly. The most popular complaints are, "It
gives me a headache," and "It gets me drunk too fast,"
the latter of which seems more a virtue than a vice. However, for those
of that ilk, why not try something that's justa little bubbly. There's
the 2000 Principessa Gavia Perlante, a lovely white that has
just a little fizz and is fruity, creamy, and sure to pelase anyone ($18;
Rating ***3/4).
Posted 12/15/01
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